Machine Stitching my Applique

Hi Everyone,

Have been asked how I stitch my applique, know I have written a tutorial in the past but never label my blogs so now I can't find it. This one will be more detailed with set up for my machine first as this is the most important part for getting a great result.
Am showing how I appliqued the leaves and flower of a block from In The Pink, an early pattern by Esther Aliu which I have been making since I finished Secret Garden. Will blog my progress with ITP seperately though.
Here we go.
Probably the most important thing in machine applique is to forget what you know about the perfect settings for stitching. Your machine is set by the manufacturer to stitch with the perfect stitch, if you are stitching seams that is and every one knows that fabric or thread choice can mean you need to make slight adjustments. For applique these adjustments are much bigger.

On the left is my machines default setting for tension, have to say I normally set it at 3 for straight stitching as it seems to stitch better for me.
On the right for applique I reduce my top tension to 1 and then stitch a sample with my chosen thread and fabrics to make any fine adjustment, metallic thread may need to be a little less than 1 depending on fabric.
You can see at the bottom of these photo's a sliding control, this is stitching speed and you can see it is set just under the center. I will not be stitching fast and this setting stops an accidental press of the foot that will send me racing away - and unpicking.

My usual stitch is a single blanket/buttonhole stitch although machine has two others that I use on occasion but this is the one I use most.
On the left default setting and the right my setting. It is length that I reduce most as doing raw edge it seems to almost seal the edges as I stitch.
For smaller pieces and narrow points or areas my width could reduce down to 1.4
Stitch adjusts in .2 increments at the push of a button so easy to do while stitching.
Have also set the needle to the down position, vital for all the stopping and turning of fabric.

The threads I am stitching my block with are Maderia Polyneon and a Mettler Polysheen variegate.
They are synthetic threads so care needs to be taken to press from the back of the work when stitching with these as too hot an iron can melt them.
On the right is my normal bobbin thread, Seralene which is similar to Bobbinfill, Decobob or other  lightweight specialist bobbin threads.
My Bernina machine has an eye on the hook of the bobbin case which I use when threading the bobbin as it tightens the bottom tension slightly with out having to alter the actual bobbin tension.
I only have two shades of bobbin thread for applique, beige for light backgrounds and black for very dark ones but have a Decobob  bobbin set of colours that will use if am concerned about a particular area
Needle is an 80-12 Cordenet or topstitch needle, the sharp point and slightly larger eye I find ideal for the majority of threads I use including metallic

As most of my threads are on small cones and my machines main holder for thread is horizontal I prefer to feed my thread from a stand. Also gives a better feed with specialty threads. A tip given to me that I use is to tape a safety pin to end of machine and use that as the first feed from the stand as in photo on right.

The last thing I alter before I start stitching is the pressure on my foot. can't take a photo as the numbers don't stay on screen long enough but machine has recommended pressure of 47. Once again I am not straight stitching so I reduce pressure to between 25 and 30.
This means I can move the fabric under the foot while stitching gentle curves.

Have checked my settings are right by stitching a test of same fabrics and thread plus my stabiliser.

If you haven't done much machine applique I would suggest you start by just stitching for a while and feeling and understanding how your machine stitches ie left, right, forward and repeat or maybe its left, right, forward, back, forward then left, right again, it all depends on your machine.
Get into the rhythm and count it in your head so you can predict where the needle will stop and go next. You really need to know this for when you turn your fabric or to pivot at a corner or point. Thanks Terry, I know my stitch so well had forgotten to mention the importance of this.

Although my stitching would look good without stabiliser, (used it hardly at all for Love Entwined )
I now use it all the time for stitching my outside edges. This one which I love using is a heavy tearaway which looks and feels like blotting paper, it is made from recycled cotton.
I'm stitching the flower at the top of photo so have cut a piece the size I need.

Time to start stitching

Nearly forgot, am using an open toed embroidery foot which gives clear vision of the stitching area.
I prefer to tie off all my stitching on the reverse so make sure I have both threads long enough for tying and secure the top one with my fingers as I set the needle for my first stitch.  Botom thread is laying flat and out behind the needle.
Needle is positioned JUST off the edge of the fabric, you do not want to catch the fabric edge as this can cause fraying, too far away from the edge also creates problems as background may pucker or fabric can fray because you have only caught one or two threads.

I have picked a place to start where because I am stitching stem and leaves in one colour I won't have to stop and restart my stitching.  I use a small straight stitch to travel either under or on my stitching.

My skills in paint are terrible but the black line is where I will stitch, the two red lines on the swirl at top of photo are where I will straight stitch in, turn and stitch around the swirl, then straight stitch back out to carry on up the stem.

Stitch slowly and maintain the needle entering your background just off your applique.

Where the base of the flower is I will again use a small straight stitch to move to the other edge, stitching right next to the flower but not on it. those stitches will covered when stitching the flower.

For the swirls there is a lot of stopping and turning of fabric. Not that much going around the outside as the lighter pressure on the foot will let me slowly stitch most of the outside curve with out stopping. Coming out though it will be stop and move fabric every stitch for the tighest part.

then plain sailing to the point of the leaf.

Here I have reached the very point and have turned my fabric so that I can take one stitch inwards right on the point. Machine has a pattern start button so that I only do the in and back stitch then turn my fabric for the forward stitch down the next side. With knowing my stitch well I can stop and place my needle precisely for the point if necessary or adjust a couple of stitches coming to the point, this is where the rhythm comes in.

Ready to stitch down the side, shows where I will stitch past my starting point and finish where I made my first turn to go from the stem around the leaf. Will show point better on the flower.

Stitching finished and on the reverse the top thread is clearly being pulled through by the bobbin thread. Hands up in horror if this was a seam but for applique this is what you want on the back of your work.

Positioning for the start, though thinking about it, it can be easier to start on the straight rather than right on the point as I have here.

Approaching the point this is where I start reducing my stitch, 1.6for next few stitches then to 1.4
Note that my applique edge where I will stitch is always at 90 degrees to my needle, use the inside right edge of the foot as your guide and stop and turn fabric a fraction every stitch of necessary to keep that edge at 90 degrees, moving the fabric at the start of your forward stitch.

My forward stitch has taken me right to the point so have turned fabric so that point is at 90 degrees to my foot to make 1 horizontal stitch in and back to the same point.

Next stitch is forward and am stitching away from the point, two stitches at 1.4, two at 1.6 then back to 1.8. the rest of the curve I can gently move my fabric as I stitch.

You can see the top threads clearly on the reverse. The cut in my stabiliser is because when I started stitching the flower my fabric was not sitting perfectly on my stabiliser and a quick snip let me correct it.

For the center I wanted to do some additional stitching and decided I could do it as at the same time as stitching the edge.

Used an air dissappearing pen to draw my stitching lines on the center.

Stitched the first side reducing my stitch to 1.6 at the start of the neck and kept that size to the point.
Turned my work to start the additional stitching and stitched with a small straight stitch in to the start of my marking the changed to triple stitch for a defined stitch and stitched on my drawn lines, stitched back out to the point and then completed the second side.

That is my flower finished and once the other panel is stitched it will look like this completed block

Hope this helps you understand my way of stitching and how I set my machine.
Suggest you make up some samples, have a pad and pencil alongside and play with your machine noting your settings and record what works for you.

Enjoy your applique everyone.
Cheers Jenny

Secret Garden update

Hi Everyone,

Summer weather has come early this year, has been more like mid Jan temps so have been splitting my time between stitching and the garden.
1st Dec brought part 11 of secret garden though it did pop up in my inbox early which I loved.

Loved this block as soon as I saw it and immediately knew I would stay with my butterfly fabric.
Had to fiddle a bit to get the corners to match on some of my blocks as had problems when making some of my little squares and they weren't perfect.

The borders fitted perfectly and am so happy with how it looks.

With it all together was able to study the blocks and the first block seemed not quite right in the fabrics I had used. With block one had no idea what would come after it and my colours and fabrics volved as the blocks came along. The other blocks used mainly batiks for the flowers but the first one didn't and it just didn't seem to sit as well so decided now was the time to change some of them.
Had already changed the bow so was confident about unpicking and all went well.

Am pleased with the new fabrics but have one more flower to change, Was happy with the peachy one but now it looks out of place to me so will redo it as well. Am gradually adding more butterflies as I decide where I want them.

One more added to this block, used two butterflies to create the one in the centers with both wings up, a friends suggestion as she loves seeing them like this and they are hard to find on fabric.

Was going to write more as have started another project and yes it's another of Esther's patterns.
In The Pink another early pattern from before I joined her group, has always appealed to me so have made a start, photo's next time.

Enjoy your week everyone,
Cheers Jenny

WOW 29th Nov Flowers Bloom is finished

Hi Everyone,
Not sure where the time has gone but a month since I last blogged. Spring weather has been good so have been spending time in the garden so not as much stitching has been done.
Having to think what I have done during the month.
Put the borders onto Red Delicious so another one joins the growing pile of those waiting to be quilted.

Very happy with how it looks, a pattern of Esther's that I have wanted to make for years nand it was so enjoyable to make.

OMWFB is now a finished quilt top as well. Block 4 was fun to do and went quickly as had my fabrics all picked and ready to go. Did remember to take photo's as I went.

 Chosen fabrics and testing a vase fabric using a template

Didn't work with the side vases like I had hoped.

Pieces for flower all cut out ready for assembly

Starting to build one layer at a time

All together and ready to stitch

Mettler variegated threads for all my stitching.

Did a round of triple stitch next to my blanket stitch around the center

Changed the size on an embroidery stitch I use a lot and use metallic thread to stitch the pistil around the center.

My bottom blocks together.

With this done it was time to decide my last two fabrics and put the top together.

These were what I chose. 

Tried several but these two worked together and added the little bit of bling that I so love.

On My Window Flowers Bloom

Love how it looks, had concerns my flowers in part 4 might have been too bold but my top vases are very strong colours and am happy with the balance the dark edges has brought.

Another for the must quilt pile.

Work on OMWFB stalled for a while when Part 10 of Secret Garden was released and it was time to put the center together. Was so pleased that what was pinned to my wall was the layout and even more pleased when it went together without a problem. Having reduced the pattern it was fingers crossed I was making the right calculations  especially when it came to final trimming.

It was at this stage that I seriously looked at block 1 again as have not been completely happy with the flower colours against those of the other blocks. Maybe not the colours so much as the actual fabrics I used, made up my mind and very carefully unpicked and replaced two of them.

Not a huge difference but a bit more depth and the fabrics I didn't like are gone. Now have to replace the bud over the vase as it needs to be dark. and think about adding more butterflies which is what I am doing this morning.

Linking now to Esther's WOW and back to my butterflies

Enjoy your week everyone

Cheers Jenny

WOW 25th October Catching up

Hi Everyone,

Missed blogging last week as I was busy playing with my new toy.

A portable quilting frame complete with a Juki machine. First place to set it up was on my sewing table and yes it takes up a lot of space, 72" like this but has an extension that takes it to 108"

Played with the machine firstbefore putting it on the frame and what a fantastic straight sewer it is, already love it but boy is it fast. Lots of practice going to be needed before I attempt one of my quilts.

At the weekend Steve refurbished a desk he had in the garage and the frame has now moved to our 4th bedroom/office and I have got my sewing table back. 

Set up in its new room, won't be able to use the extension in here but least it can stay set up while I practice. Have been told am not having any more rooms two is the limit, garage is out of bounds also.

Gracie very happy as the single bed from that room has moved to the sunroom and is now her favourite place to spend the day. 

Fingers are crossed that she doesn't decide to eat it, as she ate the secondhand couch we got for her last year and we had to dump it as it was beyond repair. Must remind Steve it would be nice to get the walls finished as well, the joys of having a builder husband.

Took Hexit back to the group last week, decided to cut off the zigzag ends and add top and bottom borders to make it more functional for whoever is lucky enough to win it when it is raffled.

The Dargaville ladies throughly enjoyed making it and it looks stunning

 Enjoyed making part 3 of OMW Flowers Bloom as had just bought some batiks that were on sale ot spotlight and knew I wanted to use one in particular for my leaves as it had just the right look. Did concentrate on my vase and flower first though.

Used a lighter fabric for the back of my flower and the cut my petals from the poppy fabric I had tried for block two. Triple stitch for my stamens in a variegated lilac thread and a double blanket stitch in varigated metallic for the little circles. 

Added my leaves and again varigated Mettler threads for the stitching

One done and one to go.

Very happy with how they have turned out.

Inbetween I have been slowly working away on my Red Delicious blocks. very different working with shades of one colour and at times it is a challenge but its also lots of fun.

Cherry Thieves was the next one up, here all the fabrics are in place but nothing stitched.

All stitched, the metallic on the wings and tail make a huge difference

The eye is a real feature on these birds so decided to use reverse applique placing a slightly deeper plain red under the cutout of the eye. Meant I could blanket stitch outwards around the eye giving it better definition. Used a pigma pen for the eye itself and a dot from a metallic silver pen as a highlight.

In place under the Cherry Basket

Next up was Love Apple another smaller block with two Pomegranates and an Apple.

I cut the outside of the pomegranates as one piece and darkened the center with pencils as it didn't show up as much as I wanted, the highlight on the apple is reverse applique.

Finished and sashing added.

With these blocks done it was time to add the small swirly block to the bottom and join the first two panels together

Yay, Had been worried about matching the join between the two swirly blocks but had taken the precaution of leaving the last couple of inches of the vertical one unstitched and unfused.

The edge was out but I was able to trim for a perfect match and then finish my stitching. 

Last of the small blocks in the center panel was Nightshade. Bought another couple of fabrics before starting this one as had use most of my reds and wanted to have different ones rather than reusing the same fabrics

Assembly done and first flower stitched, new fabrics used for the leaves.

Glad I bought the extra fabrics.

Paired with the fan block to complete the bottom of the first two panels.

The last block of all is Peony Bloom though to me I see Carnations and that is the look I went with.

Fabrics all in place with using my second option for the stems. Had cut them first out of a black fabric with a tiny red dot all over but it was just too dark and hard looking. Found this blackberry fabric and though it is still very dark it is dark purple and works much better.

Stitched with a purple, yellow and green variagated thread it has come to life.

Flowers come alive with stitching as well.

The final block finished

Yesterday I joined the completed the third panel and assembled the top, this morning have put on the final sashings so only the outer borders to do once I decide on my fabrics.

Red Delicious.

Love this pattern and have had so much enjoyment making it, now to practice lots on my quilter so that I can do it justice with the quilting.

Linking now to Esther's WOW for 25th October,

Enjoy your Wednesday everyone

Cheers Jenny